Cuyabeno

At the end of May, Roman and I took our last trip to a different part of Ecuador before our 2 year adventure was finished. Ecuador is comprised of 4 very unique regions: the Galapagos Islands, the coast, the sierras, and the Amazon rainforest. We had traveled to all of these places while in Ecuador but only got to the outskirts of the rainforest. For this trip, we traveled deep into the jungle to the Cuyabeno Wildlife Reserve, located on the equator in the far northeast corner of Ecuador. This reserve has the highest biodiversity in the world with the greatest number of plant and animal species per hectare.

We began our journey with a short flight from Quito to Lago Agrio on Friday morning, followed by a 2 hour drive to the river, and finally a 1 hour motorized canoe ride to the Cuyabeno Lodge. As we floated along the river, we saw several species of birds, including parrots and macaws, and monkeys.

The next 3 days were filled with motorized canoe trips along the river, swimming at sunset in the Cuyabeno Lake, a night hike through the jungle, and paddle canoe trips along the banks of the river and lake. We saw 7 species of monkeys, parrots, macaws, a young anaconda, pink river dolphins, caymans, turtles, tarantulas, a poison dart frog, zombie fungus (my personal favorite), and many species of insects, spiders, and plants. I will let the pictures speak for themselves – it was an incredible place.

Santiago and Valle del Colchagua, Chile

For my spring break at the end of March, Roman and I traveled to Chile to explore Santiago and a wine region about two and a half hours south of the city.

Our first stop was a town called Santa Cruz in the Valle del Colchagua, a region known for their Carmenere wines. We stayed at a quiet and comfortable bed and breakfast for 4 days and explored several vineyards via bicycle. Our first day, we rented bikes and rode the larger of the two loops on the Ruta del Vino, taking us to the Laura Hartwig and MontGras wineries. The scenery was beautiful and we had a lovely time learning about grapes and the local wines from our guide.

We visited the Santa Cruz vineyard on our second day and enjoyed the ride up the teleferico with views of the surrounding landscape. Our day ended with a visit to the Estampa winery and a nap for Roman on their patio.

On our third day, we did the shorter loop on the Ruta del Vino, visiting the vineyards of Lapostolle, Montes, and Neyen. Each winery had something unique to offer. The building that houses the wine making equipment and aging rooms at Lapostolle was built into the side of a mountain and had the most amazing architecture of any of the wineries we visited in the region. At Montes, we enjoyed a delicious lunch at their cafe and a nice driving tour around the vineyard. We ended our day at Neyen, one of the smallest vineyards we visited on our trip, but not to be outdone with the quality of their wine; they only made one varietal of Carmenere and many of their vines were over 100 years old

We headed back to Santiago on Thursday to spent a few days in the city before returning home to Quito. On Thursday evening, Chile played Argentina in a world cup qualifying match so we headed down to the stadium to try to buy tickets. This quickly became more difficult than we anticipated, given that you had to have a Chilean id in order to purchase your ticket online. We walked around for quite a while holding 2 fingers in the air but no one seemed to understand this very American way of trying to find tickets; a miracle did not come our way. Around game time, we gave up and headed back to the neighborhood of our hotel to watch the game on t.v. at a local restaurant.

The next morning we went on a walking tour of Santiago with Tours 4 Tips. We went to some of the local markets and ended the tour in the cemetery of Santiago. We learned a lot about Chilean history and culture from the tour. That evening, we met up with two friends of ours from Academia Cotopaxi, who happened to be traveling in the area at the same time, for a nice dinner and drinks at a local jazz club.

Roman ended up renting a mountain bike on our last day in Santiago and went for a ride on one of the hills near the city. Later, we had an amazing meal at Bocanariz. That night, we headed back to Quito after another memorable trip in South America.

 

Patagonia

During Carnival break in February, Roman and I traveled to Patagonia, Argentina. We arrived in Buenos Aires and quickly made our way to El Calafate in southern Argentina. We spent two days in El Calafate, exploring the Perito Moreno glacier in Los Glacieres National Park. This glacier is part of the Southern Patagonia Ice Field which is the 3rd largest reserve of freshwater in the world. Another interesting fact is that this glacier is only one of three Patagonian glaciers that is still growing, not receding. There were building size pieces of glacier calving off and the biggest of the day was a tower 150′ tall.

From El Calafate, we took a bus to El Chalten, a small town to the north that would be the start of our trekking tour around Monte Fitz Roy. We met up with our friends from Colorado, Meghan and Peter, for a few days of exploring. The first day, we hiked to our lodging at El Pilar, a 17 kilometer hike that had spectacular views of Monte Fitz Roy and the surrounding valleys and glaciers. The second day, we hiked to Laguna de los Tres which offered the most beautiful views of Mont Fitz Roy.

Meghan and Peter headed north on their journey on the third morning while Roman and I continued exploring the areas around El Pilar. We headed out with plans to go to Lago Electrico but ended up at Laguna Azul where the water was so clear blue that you could see the fish swimming around in the lake. On the fourth morning, Roman and I hiked to Loma del Pliegue Tumbado. This hike was our favorite and gave us amazing views of Cerro Torre and Fitz Roy.

We ended our journey in El Calafate on Superbowl Sunday where we cheered on the Broncos from our hostel. It was a bit of a surreal experience.

Happy 40th Birthdays to us! This was the trip of a lifetime and a great way to celebrate this milestone.

Imbabura

IMG_7307 (Copy)For Quito Days (6 de Diciembre), we traveled with our friends, Vanessa, Nick, and John, to the town of La Esperanza to the north of Quito. We stayed at Casa Aida where the owner, Aida, told us stories and showed us pictures from the 1970s when Bob Dylan and members of Pink Floyd stayed there.

On Saturday morning, we got up early and hiked to the top of Imbabura, the local volcano. It was a cloudy day so there were not any views from the top but it was a fun hike with all of our friends and Lucy.

 

Mindo Revisited

Over the Thanksgiving weekend, we revisited Mindo, a small town in the beautiful cloud forest of the Western Andes. We stayed at El Descanso where we were able to relax and enjoy some bird watching from the decks of the lodge.

We did some different hikes this time, including the Yellow House Trails and a guided night hike. We saw some interesting organisms on the night hike: tree frogs, spiders, different types of insects, and an owl. It was a little creepy walking through the cloud forest in the dark!

World Cup Qualifier

On November 12, Roman and I went to the Ecuador versus Uruguay world cup qualifier futbol game at Estadio Olimpico Atahualpa in Quito. It was an awesome experience and we were blown away by the fact that people came from all over the world to see a game that was within walking distance from our apartment!

 

The Intag Cloud Forest

For our 4 day weekend in November, we traveled to El Refugio Cloud Forest Lodge in the Intag Cloud Forest in Northwest Ecuador. The cloud forests of Ecuador have some of the most biologically diverse species of plants and animals in the world.

The lodge itself was beautiful and the food was all grown on the property or locally sourced. A very kind local couple and their 2 children manage the property. We had some of the best meals there that we have had in Ecuador. The first day we walked the trails on the property, including a climb to the mirador with views of the Intag valley and Volcan Cotacachi as well as the Toabunchi River.

The next day we explored the Siempre Verde reserve, about a half-hour drive from the refugio. We hiked several trails that included both primary and secondary forest. We saw different types of flowers and birds on our hike.

The highlight of our trip was exploring the Intag Cloud Forest Reserve, a forty-minute walk from El Refugio. We hiked to a beautiful waterfall and, on a second hike in the late afternoon, we were able to see the elusive Andean cock-of-the-rock. Overall, it was a relaxing long weekend at one of the most beautiful, natural places in Ecuador.

 

 

Panama City Visit

At the beginning of October, we had a three-day weekend that I spent in Panama City visiting Emmy, a friend of ours from Crested Butte, Colorado who is also teaching abroad. We had a great time catching up and taking in all that Panama has to offer. We spent time at an all-inclusive resort on the beach, caught up with some other friends from CB, and visited the Panama Canal.

Thanks for an amazing weekend Emmy! I can’t wait to visit you again and bring Roman along.

Road Trip Peru Part 5 – Huamachuco to Chachapoyas

For the last part of our road trip through Northern Peru this past summer, we drove from Huamachuco to Chachapoyas. On our way to Chachapoyas we stopped for two nights in Celendin. As with most of the stops on our trip, it was Celendin’s independence day!

After getting settled into our lodging, we took a walk through the town in search of the celebration which we were told included cock fights and bull fights. We never found the cock fighting ring but Roman did climb up a sketchy looking scaffolding to catch a glimpse of a bull fight. This “ring” was literally put up the day before with two-by-fours and nails and was packed to the gills with people.

The next day, we drove out of town and Roman found a pretty fishing spot while Lucy and I relaxed in the shade. We continued our journey north the following morning, stopping in the Leimebamba district to check out a museum with mummies!

El Museo de Leimebamba was a nondescript place that you wouldn’t know was there unless you were looking for it. The artifacts and mummies in the museum were from numerous tombs found in the mountain overlooking Lago del Los Condores. It was very interesting to see but, unfortunately, no photography was allowed inside the museum.

Our destination was Chachapoyas. This town was one of the highlights of our trip for several reasons. First, we stayed at a beautiful hotel in town that was the fanciest place we stayed while in Peru. The owners of the hotel were some of the nicest people we met in Peru and allowed Lucy to stay with us even though they had a “no dogs allowed” policy (once again, Lucy was an ambassador!).

We enjoyed hiking to the Gocta waterfall, once considered the third highest waterfall in the world. It is now regarded as being in fifteenth place due to its multiple drops. The next day we took a drive, culminating in a walk down a path to the Sarcofagos de Karajia. We weren’t expecting to end up there but, for me, it was one of the coolest places we visited on the trip.

After spending three wonderful days exploring the area, we headed for La Balsa to cross the border back into Ecuador and end our three week journey.

 

 

 

Baños

Last weekend, Roman, Lucy, and I traveled to the town of Baños at the base of the Tungurahua volcano (on the way into town, we actually saw some smoke rising from the active volcano). The full name of Baños is Baños de Agua Santa (Baths of Holy Water) and is named after the hot springs located around the town. We stayed at the Posada del Arte hostel which is right next to the La Cascada de la Virgen (waterfall).

On Saturday, we didn’t let the rainy weather stop us from hiking around Casa del Arbol and then finding a place down by the river for Roman to fish. We got to try cuy for the first, and probably last, time. It was a little different than what we expected!

On Sunday, we explored the area of Pondoa, a tiny village on the dirt road to the refuge of the Tungurahua volcano. We can’t wait to go back to Baños when my knee is healthy enough to do some real hiking and biking. We would love to climb to the refuge of the volcano.